Moving South...

This is the kind of place we have to live in these days. Really slumming it, right? We are currently in Bahia Navidad (yep, Christmas Bay) and the marina is part of the Wyndam Grand Resort, Isla de Navidad. Gorgeous. Glorious after 8 days anchoring and getting salty and stinky and low on food. The pools are fabulous, replete with water slides and a bar you can swim up to. We felt like we arrived in heaven! So civilized. But man is it HOT here. And hot is not always pleasant.

Marina Puerto de la Navidad, Wyndham Grand Resort, Isla de la Navidad in the background

Appa in our slip

As you can probably tell, we were finally able to tear ourselves away from Banderas Bay - Puerto Vallarta and La Cruz - after more than a month there. We loved it there and it was actually hard to leave it, knowing that we had only just begun to explore all that the area has to offer. Knowing we’ll be back in March helped some. Marcus wants to do the Banderas Bay Regatta in March so on our way back up the coast to further explore the Sea of Cortez, we'll be stopping there again. And we'll go back to Costco... OMG that was an amazing experience. A cool slice of home and familiar goodies and presentation and even cheap hotdogs! But we had miles to go... and barnacles to swish away. We were eager to get off the docks/marinas and get moving again. Hard to imagine I would say that but now that we are halfway through our adventure, it seems to be speeding by us. Marcus has decided that his best weather window to get the boat safely back to Seattle is to leave the southernmost tip of Baja California around the last week of May, first week of June, heading to Hawaii (three weeks) and then from Hawaii to Seattle (three weeks), chasing the currents and avoiding a bash up the coast. He has already started to focus on that aspect of the trip which oddly annoys me a bit since we still have so much to do before then. But I get it. We need that all to be in place sooner rather than later so our friends who are coming to help him deliver the boat have time to make travel and life plans. As you can tell, I have opted NOT to do the crossing with Marcus. I am not comfortable with it, especially with Samey aboard. It is too long to be “trapped” on a boat at sea for her and it would not be enjoyable for me to be “trapped” with her care, potentially seasick for days on end. She's a great little sailor girl and quite comfortable on the boat but not being able to get off the boat or run around or swim would prove unhealthy for her, I am sure of it. You should see her swim these days... Ben and Sam are eager to get back to “the blue house” and talk about it constantly. Samey even told me she had a dream about it. I know, however, that they will miss these days on the boat once we are back home and back into the routines there. I know I will, too. It's not easy living like this but it sure is "living". We are lucky to be able to do this, I know it. So, sooner than I can imagine, I will fly up to Seattle with the kids. 

See the whale fluke? It was swimming in the anchorage when we woke up!

Samey, Easton (S/V Sand Dollar) and Ben swimming off the boat in Ipala

Checking the "rope swing" connections at Ipala (village in the background)

There goes Marcus! 

Since we left Banderas Bay, we have made some great stops. Our first stop was Ipala. The guidebooks did not seem enthusiastic about it but we had a marvelous time. The whole family loves to be able to jump off the boat into the warm, clear waters. Its not something you can do in La Cruz or Puerto Vallarta. We did at Punta de Mita and Tres Mariettas but it had been some time and everyone was happy. Marcus rigged up a rope swing with the spinnaker pole and the boys (and Kaley) from Appa and Sand Dollar made fools of themselves trying to hold on and splashing into the water. Marcus and I dinghied into the little town to check things out and see if it would be a good idea to have a meal there. We have been burned by our less than enjoyable stay in the beautiful Yelapa with the incredibly unfriendly reception we received there so we were a bit wary. But Ipala was delightful. We were immediately welcomed by "Cande"who threw our garbage bag into the back of his pick-up truck and offered to take it for us. He explained (in Spanish so I may not have understood everything...) that the statue of the Great White Shark (with a baby doll in its mouth! So funny!) was there to honor the fact that even as recently as the revolution, there were tons of sharks in the waters and now there aren't many. He and his daughter "Gaby" have a restaurant there on the water and we told them we were coming back with everyone for dinner. Marcus and JC had lobster and Shauna and I had red snapper and the kids had shrimp tacos and it was a fabulous dinner. I finally was able to give the local kids (who were all beautiful) the pencils and stickers and books that we had gotten in Target for that exact purpose. It was fun to see them all running around the sea wall in front of the marina and on the beach right there with their "gifts". Gaby's brother was the ponga driver who picked us up and dropped us off. "Fernando". I kept singing the Abba song in my head, too. We left the next morning for Chamela.

 

Silliness underway...

A wonderful bay, great beach and easy anchorage. One of our least glorious dingy beach landings, though. Samey even lost her pants, we crunched the dinghy tires and the dingy we had a fish swimming in it! We didn't capsize but we were all drenched. Waterproof backpack proved worthy! NO internet again. Not even Telcel. And NO bank. And we discovered we had NO Pesos! Oops. Thankfully, Max had some and so did Ben so we borrowed from the kids!!! The town was odd. Like a thoroughfare. Many tiendas with, oddly, tons of beach toys. We were glad to have been there over the weekend and to see the Mexican families playing together and swimming and enjoying the surf. Antipodes showed up which was great fun for the kids. They love our powerboat friends and their son, Adam. Samey loves their kitties - Fiddlesticks and Oreo. And then, happily, we were joined by Vales Valeo again!! 

Off to swim and fish in Chamela Bay

Three Mexican lovelies

They were coming for just one night there and as we had been there in the bay for several nights we decided with Sand Dollar to travel with them to Paraiso. What a lovely little cove it was. But the wind picked up and by nightfall, we knew we were in for a VERY rough night at anchor. YIKES. But we all just went to bed and the kids slept from 8:30-8:00 am. We left as soon as we could and headed to Bahia Navidad. We love this place. The town is so colorful and has so much character. And the resort has proven to be SO much fun for everyone. Lots of bugs... HOT... but a wonderful place. Internet still IMPOSSIBLE but we do what we can. More to come as we are now leaving for Manzanillo!

Driving Ms. Dinghy

I am finally earning my Dinghy badge. Yup. Took me half the trip but, hey, better late than never? Yesterday, I loaded up Suzi and her oldest daughter Sonia (S/V Vales Valeo) and Kaley (S/V Sand Dollar) from where we are all staying at the Marina Isla Navidad, started the motor, backed up, turned around and got out of the marina, across the bay to tie up at the Sands Motel in Barra de Navidad to go shopping in the village, dodging pangas all the way, and did it ALL BY MY SELF. No Marcus. No Max. Of course, the girls helped me and didn't cringe too much. And then I did it all again to get us back again... in the dark and lightning (I did, however, forget the flashlight/lightsource - dangerous in Mexican waters but we hadn't planned having so much fun shopping that we would end up coming back in the dark). Scoutmaster Brian... Did I earn that badge? (No photo attached since I was too busy avoiding the wakes to also take photos. But I have witnesses!).

The miracle of dolphins

Riding on the noses of two dolphins!!!!

I want to apologize for blogging so infrequently. I want to write more but it is such a challenge. The internet (or lack of it), the lack of time alone with my thoughts AND a computer at the same time, the worry about what to post, the food, the schooling, the messy boat, the cluttered boat, the laundry, the too many books I have been reading, the pure exhaustion when everyone is actually in bed - it makes for putting my blog last on the list of things to do in a day. But then, yesterday, we had such an amazing experience that I can't help but blog... We went to Aquaventures (Nuevo Vallarta - yes, we are still in Banderas Bay after a month!!!), a water park that has a "dolphin experience", and got the "Royal" package.  It was worth every penny!!! Everyone - adults too! - loved the water park with slides and tubes and lazy river and "the toilet" and "the tooth breaker" and the works (but the whole park was small, just the right size and NOT crowded!!). The whole crew from Sand Dollar, Eric and Cora (age 3) from Rebel Heart, Isiah (age 5) and his mom Helen from Raireva joined us, as well as Steve and Sasha (age 5), our new friends from Bucerias. The little kids loved the young kids section and spent HOURS there together splashing and sliding. Just some of us (Sand Dollar and us, minus Marcus and JC who watched) went over to do the dolphin experience and went back to play afterwards. What absolutely amazing animals they are. We had such a great time!! 60 minutes in a group of 10 (including Samey!!). In true Mexican style, it was a casual and fun experience. Not hyped. Not too many rules. Not too regimented. Relaxed. Refreshing. I wasn't even sure if they would let me take Samey with me but they did and not only did they let her get in the pool with us, the instructor went out of his way to let her ride on her own in the pool with one of them on its tummy. Such kind and gently creatures. It was one of the most singularly exhilarating experiences of my life to see her just holding on and riding on the dolphin's tummy. It was breathtaking! She is so brave, so independent! And Benny was so brave, too. And Max just kept saying how he wants one for his own!!! He loves dolphins. I wonder if he could ever craft a life for himself working with them. I am SO glad we did this here.

Feliz Navidad

Someone's Christmas in La Cruz (from the street)

Oddly Christmas. On the one hand, I have been so happy to be away from the comedy of The Holidays in the US. The onslaught. The hammering. The crushing pressure to shop, to bake, to cook, to invite, to visit, to give, to receive, to always be behind and attempting to “do it all” before the deadline. But the pressure is here, too. The kids (Ben and Samey) have been so focused on Christmas and Santa Claus and presents. And Ben on his 9^th birthday (December 26). I had hoped, when imagining this trip, that we could avoid it all but I have since learned that it is not possible. As with so many of my “assumptions” about cruising and what is and is not possible living on a moving boat. It’s been hard to “feel” like Christmas since it feels so much like summer here. Our shopping and cultural integration skills have been weak thus far and our meager holiday decorations amount to a 20 inch plastic tree, bought in La Paz, that was decorated by Ben and then undecorated for the crossing and some cutout snowflakes. We’ve been reduced to shopping at Wal-Mart down here. We did spend some fun time over on Rebel Heart, sweating and making flat felt ornaments for their Christmas tree and that was “festive” (but I would enjoy doing just about anything with Charlotte!).  

Samey and Cora (Rebel Heart) in front of the tree!!

I also bought a fabulous paper mache Santa at the La Cruz artisan market for $150 Pesos (around $11).

Ho Ho Ho

But I had a white night feeling badly, mostly for Ben, about my lack of ability to “bring the magic” for him this year and make Christmas come alive. He is so anchored by the holidays and the decorum and the “traditions” and I fear that I have really let him down. With so much change and so much to adjust to and such a continual flux, the kids cling to what they know is set and “fixed”. Like holiday traditions. “We’re having stockings, aren’t we, Mom?” ACK! I didn’t think to bring them! He is so bright and eager and open and trusting and innocent. He sincerely believes in magic and I am convinced that he still believes in Santa. His letter to Santa reminded him that we would be in Puerto Vallarta… He prays at night. He just trusts. And we get impatient with him sometimes and his seemingly blind questions to us about “the obvious” but we forget and too often ignore the beauty of his age and sweet character. He has not yet “turned the corner” into “knowing”. He is such a fantastic child. I guess he will not be too scarred by this wonky holiday season. I hope. I hope that he’ll remember it as odd but special… Just like he is. Odd but special.

Paid some guy$30 Pesos for this shot on the beach in Yelapa.

As I write this, we are on the “A” dock at Paradise Village in Nuevo Vallarta (basically Puerto Vallarta). This is the most “resort” we have done thus far. HUGE resort. Multiple pools, crocodile slides, beach, tiger rescue cages, spa, a “Kid’s Club”, drink specials. The stink of the brief, stolen moments of luxury vacationing. You get the picture. It is fun to be at a marina at the base of the huge hotels with people everywhere. We are right in the resort but also apart and that is nice. And since our “vacationing” is extended, we don’t have the same desperation. Being at the Marina and at the Yacht Club here have their advantages. Fishermen in canoe-like boats throw their spiked nets right behind our boat. Luxury yachts pass by, excursion boats pass by, sport fishermen pass by. It is charming. For sure. But we are a long way from “Mexico” and getting food, necessities and the likes is a challenge. The laundry is at the shopping mall. Yes, I said that. At the shopping mall, down from McDonald’s. Around the corner from Starbucks. There is a nativity scene there, at the entrance of the mall, but someone apparently thought that the Baby Jesus deserved better and he was "removed". So much for religion.

Oh where or where has my little Jesus gone? Oh where or where could he be?

I miss La Cruz. It really felt like a good mix between cruiser world and “actual Mexico”. Simpler. Accessible. Less hustle and bustle. We aren’t far away. La Cruz is just a bus ride away and many friends are anchored or at the marina there. We even took the boat over there (one hour motoring) on Sunday to go to the market again since I love it so much and was looking for more Christmas gifts and the food is so good there. I’m sure we’ll be back. Sand Dollar and Winterhawk arrived there yesterday. Moments and Unleashed are there now, too. The holidays bring communities together. I find myself wishing we were there instead of here or rather that we could have BOTH places at once. Today, Christmas Eve, we are awaiting the arrival of Oma and Opa (Ilse and Pete) and Max’s dad, Holm, all three of whom are coming to stay for a week at the resort here with us, staying in the hotels. They will be arriving overladen with suitcases full of gifts from my mom and Amazon.com purchases made over the past month or so with the intention of making Christmas, Christmas. And of some things we have not been able to find here in Mexico (again, our lack of shopping prowess and know-how, possibly). We’ll make tacos for Christmas Eve dinner once everyone has arrived and is settled into their rooms and then, once the kids are asleep, we’ll do the “elfing” and wrapping and staging and get the little tree on our salon table ready for the waking of the kids… Christmas Day we’re joining several other boat friends on the dock for a “potluck”. The marina is supplying tables and chairs. I even forgot to bring the sour cream coffee cake recipe that we make every Christmas morning (my Dad’s favorite), that is how “oddly Christmas” it is going to be. I hope you all out there following us have a wonderful, warm holiday season... I'm sending you some spices, some sunshine and some Mexican color and cheer.

San Blas

Mexican Riviera!

And now we are on the Pacific Coast of Mexico! We left La Paz last Monday and went back to Los Muertos, buddy boating this time with our new friends Julie and Mike and their son Ben on Sea Otter. For the projected 40+ nautical mile trip (around 8 hours), I was feeling a bit brazen and decided to try the ear plug method since it was going to be a day sail. What a mistake! I could not get the foam ear plug to stay in my ear and since I wanted to test that method, I did not take anything else and so I was caught unprepared. I was SO SICK. I vomited 3 times. And I learned that the patch has really been doing a lot for me. Once we arrived, in the evening and set the anchor, I was fine. But YIKES. That was hard. It was lovely to be back there. Such a lovely anchorage! Some great snorkeling for everyone.

This time in that bay, I did not fall and hurt my ankle, we had calm nights for sleeping and it was all around a lot less stressful than the time we were here before. We stayed 2 nights while we watched the weather and waited for the perfect time to make our crossing of the Sea of Cortez. Went to the crazy Gran Sueno resort again. Deserted. A lovely place full of good intentions but falling to ruin.

Since the crossing of the Sea of Cortez would take us 48 hours or so, we decided with Sea Otter to leave late afternoon on Wednesday and do 2 overnights and one full day. I put on a patch, took a Zofran, put in an ear plug, put on the pressure wrist bands, some Advil and had a healthy dosage of chocolate. This seems to be the strange cocktail that works for me! I was not sick for the entire trip to Isla Isabel and even was able to cook and eat food! Amazing. I am still scared to take the Sturgeron (Cinnazarine) so I think, for now, that I will stick with the above noted cocktail and hope for the best! The trip was lovely. And weird, too. We had a bird land on the top of our mast just before dinner on Thursday night and for 14 hours he just sat there. Hitching a ride! I thought it was eery. For my 3-7 watch, I kept looking up at him and wondering what it all meant. I did not feel like I was alone... it was odd. He left us before we got to our destination so we must have helped it along!?!

Just sitting there. Pooping on the deck, of course.

We had so much fun in Isla Isabelle. Thousands of birds, breaking surf and an empty anchorage. We had great sleeping conditions and met up with John and his son Will from Alouette again and we all had a great time there swimming and snorkeling and visiting the birds and iguanas on the island that is a national nature preserve. The boys both came back to the boat with Geckos. I was not in favor of it but they are all so desperate for pets these days…

At the time I am typing this, Ben’s gecko, Rico, just reappeared in our head after we were sure he was lost, and Max’s Cinnamon is nowhere to be found. Apparently, they are good animals to have on a boat as they eat the bugs. We will see. So far, although San Blas is known for being incredibly buggy, we have had nothing! Something about a "quarter moon"? We may force them to release the geckos soon. If we can find them on the boat! We spent a night in Mantanchen bay which was also lovely. We arrived at night from Isla Isabel and so when we awoke this morning, we were treated to an amazing sight of a bay with lush foliage and palm trees. Compared to the dry, hard landscapes of the Baja California, it feels like Hawaii or the Caribbean! We motored into San Blas and arranged to take a ponga tour this afternoon into the jungle to see crocodiles and swim in a fresh water spring called La Tovara with Sea Otter. We had such an amazing day! So exciting. Invigorating. We saw turtles and birds and crocodiles and the most amazing mangroves.

Fresh water spring, La Tovara. A haven.

Perhaps being from Seattle, all this green and lush is doing me good. Perhaps all that dry was wearing me down? Here are some other photos from today in San Blas.

That boat (a wreck!), next to ours, is from Wilmington, Delaware?????

Appa and Sea Otter at La Marina Fornatur San Blas

Sailor Ben

 If my previous postings had you worried about me, thank you. I am fine. I just needed to vent and not just paint pretty pictures of rainbow pixie land. Lest you think all this is easy!