Monday, February 17, 2014

Reaching our Farthest Points South - Part Three (of Three)


I've decided to spend an entire post on this little island. Technically, it was only a couple of hours North of Zihuatanejo. In fact, while our guide books call it "Isla Grande", it is locally known as "Isla Ixtapa". We had heard mixed things about it but decided to spend a day and night there to check it out. It turned out to be one of our all-time favorite anchorages thus far. We had so much fun there!!! We ended up staying 3 nights and even contemplated staying one more. Lovely clean, clear water, sandy beach, great food. Fun times. The photos say it all:
Sitting at a palapa on the beach, gazing at Appa at anchor
Sand Dollar and Appa
The kids on "The Great Mable"

There they go!!!
Swim Babies
They were so lovely and kind and then even gave the kids a few minutes on the jet skies!!
Our friends Paul and Carol from S/V Unleashed

Ben diving off the boat, Sand Dollar anchored in the background
The view of the beach from Appa 
Marcus towing the kids in Sand Dollar's inflatable!

Who's peaking her head up from the inflatable?? The mighty Samey!
And there she is again, jumping and jumping and jumping again off the boat!


Saturday, February 15, 2014

Reaching our Farthest Points South... Part Two (of Three)

The beach where we landed the dinghy in Zihuatanejo
All in all, we stayed in Zihuantanejo for a week. From Saturday the 1st of February to Saturday the 8th of February. It was a great week at one of my favorite places. I just love the Pacific coast so much more than the arid, desolate Baja. We were anchored in such a pretty bay and the town was so well-organized, friendly and interesting. So different from so many of the places we have been. I would definitely return there for a vacation, if ever the chance arose. Sailfest turned out to be quite entertaining. It was a feather in our cap as Marcus had read about it in so many blogs about cruisers doing the race and we felt we should participate and see what it was like. It is a charity race to raise money for local indigenous children who are not allowed to go to school because they do not speak Spanish. We participated in the race and that meant that we offered our boat up and welcomed “paying guests” aboard for the race. This means local ex-pats and people vacationing in the bay. We were unsure about what this would mean as far as "strangers" on the boat but we cleaned up the boat as best we could and got it ready for them. As it turned out, we got SO lucky! We had two absolutely lovely couples join us: Dave and Betty from California and Dave and Diana from Canada. Both Daves have had quite a bit of sailing and racing experience, it turned out, and contributed greatly to our winning third place!! Woohioo for Appa!!! (We even made it into Latitude 38 again!!!) Marcus was, as usual, a patient and wise captain, letting them do the driving while patiently standing by and facilitating. JC from Sand Dollar joined us which was a treat since usually we are moving next to each other and not on the same boat! And Max was there as expert crew, too. Ben and Samey hung out on Sand Dollar which meant that I could actually enjoy the sail!!! NICE! It was a lovely day and we had great wind, lovely skies and a really fun day. That was on Wednesday. We also participated in the “parade” on Friday and welcomed 8 guests this time, including again the original two couples that we enjoyed so much and Ben and Sam. I found in Betty such a wonderful new friend whose bright and extroverted character reminds me fondly of my mother. I hope we will stay in touch with all of them! On Friday, after the parade, Max and I took a taxi to the airport. Max was returning to Seattle for a two-week stay to take his first semester exams (Brigham Young University Independent Study Program – 10th grade) and to see his Dad and his friends who are on mid-winter break. He is to return on the 23rd and we’ll pick him up in Manzanillo. It was hard to see him go. His presence, his character and his closeness has been such a major part of this trip for me. I am glad that he is up there with his Dad and friends, in the snow…! He has really been missing them. It is an adjustment, to be sure, having him gone. He is a big guy and the boat suddenly seems spacious! Ben and Sam are missing him, too. I did some provisioning on my way back (THAT was an adventure involving a stubborn decision on my part, thinking I know better than any old tourist, that lead to me walking many miles in the hot sun along a desolate road only to be rescued by a kindly old man in a dilapidated red pick-up truck who picked me up and dropped me off at the market... Mexicans are lovely people.) and we left Zihua with Sand Dollar and Unleashed to begin our trip back up the coast the next morning, Saturday. It was in so many ways “a turning point”. We’re heading back now. North to Banderas Bay, North to Mazatlan, West over to La Paz again and then North to the Sea of Cortez and then, eventually, North to home. I feel pangs of regret for the trip being half done from time to time, and yet, I also feel a certain sense of excitement, too. We are now heading back into “known” territory. We’ll see new places but also many that we’ve seen already and know well. And then, home. “You can’t stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.” –Kabat-Zinn.

Our wonderful Sailfest crew: Dave, Diana, Dave, Marcus, Betty and JC
Marcus, steering patiently from the wings while someone else drove
My new friend Betty!
Dave at the helm
Ben and Max during the parade
Dave, who obviously had a great deal of grand-parenting experience, bonding with Samey... cute!
The parade around the bay
Dave and Diana!
Three internet nerds and the Virgin Mary
Holey Mackeral, Batman! That is a big fish!
Max went sport fishing with Ken from Kialoa... they caught three sailfish!
Went almost every day to this "Central Market"







Friday, February 14, 2014

Reaching our Farthest Points South... Part One (of Three)

We left Bahia Navidad and all our friends there on a Monday not too long ago. I just cant keep up with this blog the way I'd like to... By now, I am so far behind it seems almost silly to go backwards and recount all our adventures... But here goes!!! We loved it Bahia Navidad but were ready for a change and a slowing of the pace. Buddy Boating is great fun but coordinating so many people can get complicated. Our wonderful friends on Vales Valeo had headed South for Ixtapa. We were all attempting to get to Zihuatanejo before the SuperBowl so that we could see the game there together and so that we could be there in time for the SailFest activities and for Max to catch his flight home to Seattle for two weeks to take his exams and see his Dad and friends there. We stopped for two nights in Las Hadas, Manzanillo. It was a lovely anchorage in front of a wilting but lovely resort. LOUD, though, again. Construction all day long and loud music into the early morning. For $200 Pesos, we could tie up to the dinghy dock and use the pool and facilities at the resort. Always lovely to swim in fresh water and the pool was quite pretty but the resort felt tired after the glorious Wyndham Isla Navidad. We were joined there by Unleashed and then Sand Dollar. We had a really fun pizza/Italian dinner at one of the restaurants by the marina there and the next day I provisioned at the nicest WalMart we've been to as we steeled ourselves and prepared for the 36 hour trip down to Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. The trip was quite easy and although we (AGAIN) did not catch any fish, we were boarded by the Mexican Navy for a "routine inspection". It was a little uncomfortable having someone with a machine gun onboard but the shiny-shoed YOUNG officer who took down our information was charming, respectful and non-threatening. They also boarded Sand Dollar and Unleashed who were following behind us.
The Mexican Navy boarding Sand Dollar, after us
We were so glad to get to the bay at Zihuatenajo! Such a lovely place. And the town was as charming and interesting as Barra Navidad. Some great shops and restaurants and an amazing "Central Market" replete with the skinned cow carcases and hanging meat, stands with tons of shoes, ones with piles of clothing, vegetable stands, cheap plastic kitchen items, pirated DVDs, and incredible "loncherias" for food. We had a great lunch sitting at one of the benches. The women all marvel at Sam's blond hair but thought she was a boy! That has never happened before. They all want to touch her hair. Suzy told me it is because they want to know that if they are staring it is not because they are giving her the "evil eye" and the touching of her head is to reassure her. Who knows! The SuperBowl was crazy. Many, many Americans and Canadians crowded the many bars and restaurants who were catering to that crowd. Our friends Vales Valeo, Sand Dollar, Unleashed, Neko all gathered to watch the game. We alternated between the beach where the kids played in the sand and the bar where they watched with the grown-ups. There was no marina and no dinghy dock but there were some guys who set up a little business "helping" the dinghies land and then watching them for $10 Pesos in and $10 Pesos out. It was actually really nice because we could go swimming or go for showers or load up the dinghy with heavy groceries and leave it there and it was safe. Alphonso, Jesus and Jose. Nice guys. The saddest part of our trip happened the next day. Vales Valeo needed to keep moving down the coast. I had become so attached to my new friend Suzy, her chipper husband,  and their wonderful girls. Kaley (who befriended Sonia), Samey (who loves Anna) and I were in tears to have them depart. We won't see them for awhile as they are headed to Costa Rica, Galapagos, crossing the Pacific and farther and won't return to their Redondo Beach, California home until the summer of 2015. Such great friends. But then, the SailFest began! I will cover that in Part Two and publish this now...

Max and Samey underway

My three Perfections on the iPad by the pool in Las Hadas

My Baby

LOVE these girls... Anna, Sonia, Kaley and Samey
She wrote SAM by herself...! Cute...
Two Peas in a Pod... Ben and Easton